Last Run at Tiergarten; Dix, Beckmann & Dietrich’s Top Hat

When I got back to my bike parked outside the Brandenburg Gate, after a last long, long run in, through and across the Tiergarten, I said a little prayer asking the park and all of its inhabitants—Goethe, Queen Luise, Beethoven, Karl Liebknecht, the bunnies, Mozart, Handel, Golden Else—to hold the people I’ve met here close. Tiergarten has seen it all and resurges again and again.

Yesterday was the old Nordbahnhof Station, Kathe Kollwitz Museum and then the Zoological Garden where I counted the paces of a black lion in her cage (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6 and so on) and ducked as fancy vultures with hats like Phyllis Diller used to wear flew straight at me with a gutted rat hanging from its beak. This bonobo, too, looked at me. Then, got a burlap sac on the ground like he was going to slide on it and instead pushed it fast all along the perimeter of his area. When he got to where he was going, he stopped and looked at me again. After a beat or so, he bulleted back to where he started scaring the bejesus out of a younger bloke who was swinging by. The long day was sealed with a good nap on a bench and I was good to go.

Today was up to Potsdamer Platz where I saw the history of German Cinema and a special exhibit on Ingmar Bergman. They actually had Dietrich’s top hat and the bell man’s uniform worn by Emil Jannings in one of my top movies of all time, The Last Laugh. I want to do a queer version. Then, the temperature plummeted, I picked up a hoodie and went to the Neue Gallerie where I saw my fourth major exhibit of German Expressionist art: Beckmann, Kirschner, Dix…amazing. Did you know that Edvard Munch painted ceiling panels for Max Reinhardt’s theatre here? They’re there in the exhibit. Then, exhausted, I got back outside (the sun and some heat had reappeared) and had another nap on the cement benches there. So, so great.

Then, I went to the Tiergarten and ran for 90 mins. I said the prayer, pressed my hands into the bent Murdered Homosexuals memorial where two men are forever kissing, got my pic taken by a couple of nice dudes and biked home. A couple of days more, then Luxembourg. Lots of pix, enjoy

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~ by Thom on May 24, 2011.

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